Sohm & Kracher Lion Gruner Veltliner 2022, Niederosterreich

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This bottling is the brainchild of Aldo Sohm—wine director at MICHELIN-three-starred Le Bernardin and a winner of the “Best Sommelier in the World” competition—and Gerhard Kracher, one of the legends of Austrian winemaking, known for dessert wines that dot MICHELIN-starred wine lists across the globe and command prices that rival d’Yquem.   Sohm & Kracher work out of Austria’s Weinviertel (“wine quarter”), a region with a long growing history but lots of hidden-gem vineyards, allowing the pair to access top sites at accessible prices—and then pass those savings along. This wine undergoes spontaneous fermentation, as do all the wines. It is the only wine in the line-up that fully ferments in stainless steel where it spends one year on its fine lees. It is a crisp, fresh, aperitif-style grüner that is salty and easy to drink.