he Aubry Dualis Sablissime is a provocative blend of 50/50 1999 and 1998 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that has seen an incredible 151 months on the lees. What has emerged is a wine that is spare in terms of fruit, and yet one of the most complex Champagnes I’ve tasted—evolving, ever changing aromas of earth, smoke, red apple skin, buttermilk biscuit, blood orange, dried apricot, and toasted almond. Vinous and generously textured with layers of dried honey, chestnut, wet dough and a sappy, saline finish.