Irancy may be one of the least-seen French appellations. This rural town is far removed, both geographically and culturally, from the famed red Burgundy villages to the south. In fact, Irancy didn’t even get its own appellation until 1999. This is true cool-climate viticulture, where winter snow and spring frosts are a regular occurrence. The same Kimmeridgian limestone responsible for Chablis’ profound minerality runs through Irancy. And for a long time, it was almost more helpful to think of Irancy as a high-acid, low-tannin red version of Chablis. You drank it well-chilled and quickly, if you drank it at all. But in recent years, with seemingly every vintage warmer than the last, the Pinot here has taken on more heft and aromatic complexity. Those who cut their teeth on the more structured and earthy–not to mention more affordable–red Burgundy of yesteryear will find plenty to love in modern-day Irancy.
In 2018, Philippe Bardet’s son Damien purchased a small one-hectare plot of Irancy, and the plot included a few rows of the extremely rare “César” grape, an ancient variety known for deep color and robust tanning. We don’t see much of the Bardet wines stateside, as well over 90% of their production is consumed greedily by locals, but wines like today’s Irancy are wonderfully unadorned expressions of place. Just a few hundred cases were made, and only a precious few are here and ready for your enjoyment.
Irancy’s signature tension is still in play here, though with a little air, the nose unfurls into some beautiful Burgundy classicism. Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, and purple plum flesh fruit lead into black tea and tobacco, violet petals, mushroomy earth, and potting soil savor. The palate is medium-bodied, with moderate tannins providing a fantastic frame for more flavors of deep red fruit and earth. The acidity at play here is a little higher than you find in most modern Burgundy, and it’s totally welcome; this truly feels like the sort of Burgundy we drank a decade or more ago. It’s refreshing, complex, and full of pleasure now, but we strongly suggest stashing away a little Bardet for future exploration; this is going to unfurl into something pretty special. Thankfully, it’s priced reasonably enough to do just that.