Shy and restrained upon opening, the 2014 Dr. Olmo has a compact core of black licorice, black cherry and forest floor. After an hour in the glass, however, the aromas become more secondary and poetic, displaying hints of candied orange rind and crushed, dried flowers. There is a lack of “juiciness” to the this wine; fruitfulness is not part of its perfume, a characteristic that is echoed in the flavors and the texture of the first sip.The build of this wine is one of its most alluring parts; while The Lark is sumptuous and round, and Solari is broad and deep, Dr. Olmo’s texture feels almost weightless and ethereal. The wine dances on your palate, lightly coating each corner with its essence of dried rose, bramble, coffee beans and cigar tobacco. This is the most complex and nuanced, if understated, Cabernet in the Fall lineup.
97 pts. James Suckling